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12 items

• It's Only Drowning

  a True Story of Learning to Surf and the Search for Common Ground

  Litt, David, 1986-

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  A former Obama speechwriter moves to the Jersey Shore and learns to surf with the help of his brother-in-law: a tattooed, truck-driving Joe Rogan superfan.

• Barbarian Days

  a Surfing Life

  Finnegan, William,

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  The New Yorker staff writer recounts his experiences as a surfer, beginning with his teen years surfing in Hawaii, covering his globe-trotting search for the perfect wave, and concluding with his current lifestyle fitting waves in between work and…Read moreRead more of this annotation

• Kook

  What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

  Heller, Peter

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  Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers…Read moreRead more of this annotation

• The Wave

  In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean

  Casey, Susan

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  For legendary surfer Laird Hamilton, hundred foot waves represent the ultimate challenge. As Susan Casey travels the globe, hunting these monsters of the ocean with Hamilton’s crew, she witnesses first-hand the life or death stakes, the glory, and…Read moreRead more of this annotation

• Rockaway

  Surfing Headlong into a New Life

  Cardwell, Diane

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  The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach.

• The Endless Summer

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  The classic surfing documentary from 1966, as California surfers travel the globe in search of the perfect wave. (NR)

• Surf Style at Home

  Clasen, Raili,

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  A guide as easy and laid-back as the surfer style that inspired it. Will make readers want to add intriguing beachy design features into their own homes.

• Epic Surf Breaks of the World

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  Accompanied by a series of stunning photographs, maps and beautiful illustrations as well as first-person stories from surf writers all across the globe, including Pulitzer Prize winner William Finnegan, this is the quintessential guide for surfers…Read moreRead more of this annotation

• Surf and Rescue

  George Freeth and the Birth of California Beach Culture

  Moser, Patrick (Patrick J.), 1963-

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  The mixed-race Hawaiian athlete George Freeth brought surfing to Venice, California, in 1907. Over the next twelve years, Freeth taught Southern Californians to surf and swim while creating a modern lifeguard service that transformed the beach into…Read moreRead more of this annotation

• Saltwater Buddha

  a Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea

  Yogis, Jaimal

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  Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from…Read moreRead more of this annotation

• Wade in the Water

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  Wade in the Water resurrects the thousand-year-old Black surfing tradition, stirring the next generation of Black surfers. (NR)

• Surfing With Sartre

  An Aquatic Inquiry Into a Life of Meaning

  James, Aaron (Aaron J.),

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  In this thoughtful meditation on surfing and philosophy, James (Assholes) explores epistemology, metaphysics, and ethics. He believes that a surfer knows the world simply by being “adaptively attuned” to it.